It was great to make it to Roncevalles! The refugio was very large (about 80 beds in a single room old stone building) but it was clean, well run, and had a very good feel. I learned that the 2nd thing to do as a pilgrim after checking in, acquiring your bed and taking a shower, was to hand wash your clothes in the sink/laundry basin and find some space on the clothes line if one existed. We hung out clothes on the barbed wire fence with sheep on the other side.

In Roncevalles we had an excellent dinner and met some interesting people - Cora the speed walker from Poland, John from England whom we met again at the end in Santiago, and some very friendly German women who had really enjoyed walking the French portion of the camino. I slept like a baby that night, and it felt very good indeed.